Mills Wine and Spirits

By M.A. Cashman, Ph.D.

Established in 1946 by Joseph and son Hillard Donner, Mills Fine Wine and Spirits, prominently situated by the dock in downtown Annapolis, is the oldest, continually-run, family-owned business on Main Street. This year Mills is celebrating 60 years of doing business. And it all began with a handshake.

Joseph Donner, one of seven children, some of whom died in the Holocaust, set off alone from his native Poland and came to New York City. According to Hillard, “He was 16, had no schooling and spoke no English. Joseph sold newspapers on the street and taught himself to speak English with some irregular verb endings, but no accent.” After moving to Baltimore, he met and married Rose; Hillard is their only child. He recounts, “My mother’s family was in the business of clothing and shoes on Lombard Street in downtown Baltimore. My father got into the restaurant business and met Billy Mills.”

Since 1933, with the repeal of prohibition, Mills had a business selling beer and hard liquor at the foot of Main Street in Annapolis. Most of the shelves were lined with liquor; rye whiskey was the biggest seller. In 1946, Joe came down to visit his old friend, Billy. Mills told him, “Joe, I’m 72 and I’m going to marry a woman who is 45 and I want to stop working and enjoy life. Why don’t you buy me out? Your son is coming home from the Navy and you can go into business with your son.” They sealed the deal with a handshake. Joe’s brother, Alex, who had been in the clothing business in Baltimore, joined them two years later.

The three Donners kept the name Mills and worked hard to grow their business. From the beginning, hard work has meant dealing with changes that had an impact on the business. These were changes in culture, real estate, and the weather. It was the end of WWII and the GIs, especially those who had served in France and Italy, had become accustomed to drinking wine with their meals. So the Donners began to sell wines from Europe, regularly traveling abroad to buy wine, developing relationships with wineries and entering the international market. They began to see steady changes in inventory. As the sale of wine increased to 85% and sales of beer and liquor declined, the name of the store evolved to Mills Fine Wines & Spirits.

There were changes to the building. First was the needed expansion beyond the original small shop with no toilet and no heat. In 1952 they bought two buildings next to the original store, had them torn down and built the larger store which is there today. In 1969, they tore down the original store and built the Donner office building. Then there was the emergency renovation of 2003. Never having experienced any flooding from storms over the years, the store took on 15 inches of water from Hurricane Isabel. Renovation was extensive, as floors were replaced, ceilings raised, and counters were re-configured.

For the past 26 years, Hillard has traveled to wineries in Europe, while running the Main Street store, most recently with son-in-law Gary Reiner as director of operations. Today Mills buys wine and serves customers from all over the world. While some come from all over the United States, and even farther to buy wine at Mills, Hillard finds Anne Arundel County consumers have discerning palates, are ready to experiment, and are open to new tastes. This is most likely due to the way Mills works to educate the public. They host about 50 wine tastings a year, in addition to special events. Hillard is proud of Mills’ senior staff of professional wine consultants and buyers eager to share their knowledge. Over the last several years, Mills’ general manager and wine buyer, Todd Ross, has visited almost every major wine appellation in France and Spain. John Chadwick, who assists in buying and oversees consumer education, has journeyed to Tuscany and the Veneto in Italy, and to Bordeaux, to buy wines for the store. Mills will also sponsor an International Wine Festival in 2006 on July 29 and 30, at the Anne Arundel County Fair Grounds. The outdoor festival will feature over 50 international and national wineries (representing over 200 wines), live music, cooking demonstrations, and gourmet foods, as well as over 50 unique artist exhibits.

For the wine-tasting public, Mills offers tasting events designed to cultivate a discriminating palate. Sponsored tasting events include:

The Bordeaux Room : an on-site event location, an ideal setting for those who want to host a small wine tasting for a special group. The Bordeaux Room is designed to simulate a cavernous wine vault surrounded by extraordinary First Growth and Premier Cru wines from the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions of France. In the Bordeaux Room, Mills can take you to Italy, Spain, France, or any wine-producing country of your choice.

The Corporate Taste : for area businesspeople, Mills provides a wine-tasting event designed exclusively for peers or clients for having fun, showing appreciation, or celebrating a special event such as winning a contract.

Party Planning : special celebrations, such as wedding receptions or anniversary dinners, require wine and culinary expertise. Mills has 60 years of expertise in this area. With “people who are willing to focus and linger over every detail with you…because you deserve the best help in selecting a caterer, and, of course, in the pairing of wine with food,” Mills offers full support. “Tell us your idea or party plan for a large or small event…we would like to help you actualize your vision by turning it into a practical reality.”

Businessman Hillard Donner is a philosopher who has discovered that the secret to having a wonderful life is a smooth blend of family, business and community service in a place close to the heart. As a hardworking businessman, he has brought international renown to Mills Fine Wine & Spirits and to Annapolis. “Wherever I go, I tell people about my town, Annapolis. The most wonderful thing that happened to my family was coming here, being a part of the town. I want everyone to know about all the wonderful things the city offers to the world and how I took it to my heart.”

When Hillard took the City of Annapolis to his heart, he became a philanthropist. He and wife Karolyn have been active in various community service projects. They have two daughters: Cynthia Reiner and Janis, who is married to attorney Glen Rotner.

While on the Board of the Anne Arundel County Medical Center, Hillard donated $1 million and raised $23 million more for the Pavilion he named in honor of his parents: the Rose and Joseph Donner Pavillion. He has also donated to the Jewish Chapel at the US Naval Academy. Thanks to Hillard and his wife, a main feature at the entrance to the chapel is a skylight in the shape of the Star of David. Another cause close to Mr. Donner’s heart is the Hospice of the Chesapeake. Hillard noted, “They do such wonderful work. There are so many beautiful people and organizations in Annapolis; I love them all.”

On April 23, Mills is marking the milestone of their 60th anniversary with planned events to include wine tasting, special promotions and the mayor of Annapolis, who will make an appearance to congratulate Hillard Donner for his long success.

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